Mead Minutes: Exploring Addis Ababa

church dome in Addis Ababa

Greetings from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia!   What a beautiful morning!  I awoke quite early in the quiet darkness.  As I searched for my light and my book a soft sound arose from off to my left.  The tone slowly rose and fell into the morning call to prayer.  In Al Ain, this chanting song lasts a few minutes and the jarring amplified sounds fade as dawn approaches.  Here in Addis, the songs linger on.  Even though I fail to understand any of the words, the breaking of the night and calling of the dawn draws me into a new day.  After my morning routine, I walked outside the hospital up to the kitchen.  The kitchen staff is an amazing group, spoiling me rotten.  Approaching the faucet for clean drinking water, I am greeted with smiles all around.  One woman always rushes to the stove.  The clay pot is resting there ready to be heated; my coffee shortly arrives.  Oh yes!  Today I cuddled the warm cup and walked along the pathway as food was prepared.  The song from off left was still accompanying my day.  As I strolled farther, other vocalists were also in tune.   After breakfast, I walked down to the bottom of the CURE hill and could appreciate four different singers surrounding me and echoing across the hills.  The hills were indeed alive with music!

I have been contemplating my note for several days.  Some weeks the topics are absolute; the choice is so easy as something strikes me strongly.  Other weeks I am faced with a large variety of options and must choose one.  Some weeks I have trouble finding anything that should be written.  This week is one of options.  I could write about short term missions and the plus/minus view from a long term missionary performing short term missions.  I could write about several of the cute kids that came to clinic and their needs.  I could write about the CURE hospital here.  None of these topics seemed right for the week.  I will write later about missions, but today is not the day.  CURE Ethiopia is an awesome mission here in Addis.  The work of the hospital is important; the staff talented.  The need in Ethiopia for the medical/spiritual mission hospital is great.  Ethiopian children are very beautiful for sure.  I love their smiles.  Surgeries went well, clinics were full.  But that is not the topic for today.

I have only been in Ethiopia a brief couple weeks.  I know very little of the country as a whole.  I could get lost walking from the hospital if I am not careful.  Last week I joined some other CURE volunteers to travel around Addis with a driver and explore.

Ethiopia is a country with a long history.  I always remember the story of the Queen of Sheba coming all the way to the Middle East to visit Solomon.  Solomon was a man of great wisdom; the queen wanted to share in his wisdom and knowledge.  Christianity moved through Ethiopia at an early date.  Decorative monoliths are found in different areas of the country.  There are areas of beautiful forest and rugged deserts.   A sort trip, especially if you are working, will not allow you to get more than a taste of a country.  Volunteering will allow you to meet families and people in ways tourists will not, as tourists remain isolated in hotels and ride tour buses.  For me, that is an incredible benefit of volunteering your time and skills; I love to meet different people of different cultures.

Our excursion was to be limited due to time.  We piled into a small Toyota sedan and met our driver, “Antenna.”  I am not kidding.  Since we really had not clue where to go, we asked for suggestions.  Antenna smiled and we exited the CURE gate and wound up the hill.  Addis is situated on many hills.  The roads are therefore winding up and down all the time.  Roundabouts are the norm in Addis as well.  Scattered traffic lights attempt to control the weaving, honking mass of vehicles somewhat.  Pedestrians anxiously look and then time their dash across the streets.  Driving is always an adventure in the countries I have visited.

Our first stop was the national museum.  We entered the building only to be told the museum was closed.  Then the guard explained it was OK; we could start looking around anyway.  Someone will come.  We started on the ground floor.  Pictures of the different Emperors lined the walls.  Statues and paintings attracted my attention.  Suddenly a woman rushed in and the guard waved us over.  Paying a small fee, we were now legal.

Downstairs was the archeology section.   We descended to view the exhibitions before any other tourists arrived.  Pots, bowls, weapons, and pieces of every day life from old times were cleaned and documented.  Leaving that section we went to find “Lucy.”  Lucy is a partial skeleton found in Ethiopia.  Lucy is thought to be one of the oldest skeletons currently in existence.  Ethiopia has always been a cradle of civilization for archeologists.  Different skeletons and artist renditions-guesses of what the original looked like were on display.  Although I find the studies interesting, I am not an archeologist of that manner.  I would rather look at pyramids in Egypt, the Copan ruins in Honduras, the architecture of old churches and buildings, paintings of different eras, and nature as it exists now.

We ascended as several groups excitedly descended to find Lucy.  The top floor had numerous paintings depicting Ethiopian history; I always have enjoyed lions, whether wild in the Mara or sitting as guardian on a building pillar.  I have pictures of various lions alive, as statues, and as carvings.  This day I was faced with a royal lion with the staff of leadership.  I learned on a previous trip that Emperor Haile Selassie used to let lions roam the palace grounds.  That would keep the number of visitors down!   When I was allowed to visit the palace grounds in 2006, there were no lions I saw but, instead, giant tortoises wandering.  The tortoises were very nice but just not the deterrent a lion would be.   Even a slowpoke like me can outrun a tortoise.

Leaving the museum, we drove off to the next stop.  This was a large cathedral.  A priest gave use a guided tour within.  The stained glass was gorgeous as events important to Christianity were portrayed.   Near the front were the Emperor’s and Empress’ throne for worship.  Each throne was decorated with rich carvings.  The pews were simple wood with the Ethiopian style cross engraved.  A museum was next door which had some more artifacts.  Crowns of various styles were on display.  I liked a silver crown with dangling decorations and rows of carvings.  I just knew it would fit perfectly!

oldest church in Addis

We then rode off to see the oldest church in Addis and also to experience the view from the mountain top.  The climb was very difficult for the car.  Several times we stopped, backed up, and took another run at the hills.  Donkeys laden with large burdens strolled along and on the road.  Powerful cars roared on by us.  We arrived at the pinnacle and the car sighed.  The view was indeed incredible.  Addis Ababa stretched out for miles below.  Pockets of densely packed buildings were separated by the green hills.  The church itself was there but nothing I would travel far to see again.  The view was the destination of choice.

Lunch was definitely next on the agenda.  Antenna knew just the place.  He eased our way down the hill to a larger road.  Wandering here and there we arrived at a taller building.  The restaurant was up nine floors.  Enjoying the food, we looked out the window.  A large crowd was gathering.  This crowd was not a dangerous-appearing mob but people dressed in fancy clothing and others in colorful robes.  A red carpet was rolled along the street below.  People stretched along the pathway for as far as I could see.  Since our exit was obviously blocked, we sat back to enjoy.  This is the Ethiopian festival of Epiphany.  Suddenly the processional started.  Choirs started dancing and singing songs of joy.  People all around joined in the dance.  Completing one chorus, the group moved farther down the road.  More joined in behind.  Priests dressed in flowing robes carrying colorful umbrellas were next in line.  Waves and blessings to the people marked their group as celebration proceeded.  More musicians followed.  Following the last members walking in the processional, young men rolled up the section of bright red carpet and dashed forward, lugging the heavy carpets.  Way ahead the carpets were unrolled so the procession always walked on the red carpet.  Desiring a closer view, we left the restaurant to go to a small coffee shop near the road.  Now we could not only see but hear well and feel the excitement of the celebration.

Finally we entered the car for the ride home.  We had our taste of Addis Ababa.  Like so many tastes, this trip only increased your desire to see and learn more.  Life is usually like that for me.  True, there are many experiences I have had which I never wish to repeat or enlarge.  But I have been able to see much more of the world and meet many more people of the world as I serve.  Earlier in life, I would have never guessed my life going on in this way.   Life is indeed an adventure when you travel and live in His grip.

Posted by: Tim Mead

Tim has posted 49 articles.

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Dr. Mead served as the medical director of the CURE hospital in Kenya from 1999 until 2011 and now heads up orthopedics at CURE Oasis Hospital in Al Ain, UAE. He is a U.S. board certified orthopedic surgeon from Muskegon, Michigan, with specialized training in pediatrics. Prior to joining CURE, Dr. Mead ran an orthopedic practice in western Michigan providing a broad range of surgical reconstructive services including joint replacement and arthroscopic surgery.

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